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Fountain Pens > Pen Notes

Selecting & Buying Your Pen
There are three things that are key to your (pleasurable) experience with a fountain pen:

  • Selecting the right pen

  • Paper suited for use with a fountain pen

  • Ink that works well in your pen.

Having made the decision to buy a fountain pen the next step is selecting the “right” one. Well, for those just starting out and not really accustomed to the subtleties of the fountain pen I strongly recommend buying one of the inexpensive Sheaffer or Parker units you can find at many drug and discount stores in a plastic wrap. The cost anywhere from $3-9 but the important thing is they offer you a chance to “get to know” the feel and touch required for writing with a fountain pen versus pencil, ballpoint, roller ball, etc. Okay. Now to selecting that special, personal fountain pen.

Selecting a pen is a personal thing, which is why there are many different designs, colors, material combinations, nibs, and all the other options out there. So you might want to begin with a check list to define your preferences:

  • All metal cap and barrel or plastic/resin/celluloid

  • If metal, Gold or Silver, Stainless Steel, or other metal

  • If not metal: Plastic, Resin, Carbon Fiber, or Celluloid

  • Color preference if not metal.

  • Size. Yes, they do come in different sizes today – a blessing! (see picture, L to R: Mont Blanc 149, MB 146, MB 144, Delta Dolcevita, Sailor Miniature)

  • Ink Fill and Reservoir: Cartridge, Converter, Piston, Crescent.

  • Nib design: hooded or open.

  • Nib “size”: Extra Fine( XF), Fine (F), Medium (M), or Broad (B) (U.S). Europe offers Left Oblique cuts identified as OBB, OB, OM, then F, M, B, BB. Parker and Sheaffer offer italic nibs, but many dealers do not carry them. Special order is the option. (See my section on nibs for more information)

By way of example. I prefer a pen with a hefty diameter. Why? You may recall a few years ago someone had the idea those slim (skinny is the word) pens were the thing, and many of the manufacturers went down that road. Then there was a shift to it being a gender thing, i.e., it was unfashionable or something for a lady to write with anything but a dainty little ballpoint or pencil. Never mind the ergonomics, just the gingerbread and hype. Those of us who did considerable writing – male and female – had to contend with designs that were totally unsuited to our needs. My preference for the larger diameter (“thicker”) pen is based entirely on comfort. What best “fits” my hand and will comfortably act as an extension of it in long writing sessions. But let’s move on to the pen purchase.

This is where we come to the matter of price or what your particular budget can handle. It’s real easy to go from the sublime ($500-10,000) to the other end of the spectrum. If you’re starting out you might want to look in the $79-300 range because there are many good choices. All of the major manufacturers offer excellent pens in this price category. If you’re more determined, you might want to inch up a little and get into what I call the luxury and collector range. This is another personal aspect left to the individual.

After all these considerations and decisions it’s time to actually purchase the pen. There are many options to do this these days, including the Internet. You might think you can go to a store and "try" various pens, but that's generally not the case. The opportunity might show up, but it depends on the policy of the store and it helps if they know you. In the U.S. not everyone has been trained to write with a fountain pen and an inexperienced person can easily damage a pen. In Europe the pen stores generally will allow you to “test” a pen, but many people there have been trained in school to use a fountain pen. Imagine that ! Real penmanship training... They even have specifically identified "student pens" !  
 
I think being able to "test" the pen is important because irrespective of the industry standards, the combination of the specific pen (nib and ink flow), paper, and ink will differ - sometimes dramatically. A few upscale pens still have nibs that are at least partially handcrafted, which means no two are exactly alike. They may be close, but will not be the same “writers.” So, ideally, even if you’re a beginner but have (a) done what I suggested above and in other articles to get a feel for writing with a fountain pen and (b) locate a good dealer who will allow you to test the pen, this is the way to go. In testing the pen, if the first one doesn’t feel right, don’t be bashful about it, ask to try another. On one occasion I tested four Mont Blancs (same model) before I came to the “right” one. There are differences – trust me. I often take sheets of my own paper and ask to dip at least two brands of ink before I'll make the decision to buy. The nib, feed, ink, paper combination is key.

Buying on the Internet is a little different, of course, but you face the same circumstances. I usually query the dealer about return policy before I order, explaining I want the pen on approval to try the nib. Some cooperate, some do not. If you are buying a limited edition or higher priced model, there is the issue of it being entirely unused for many other potential buyers, so some dealers logically are not inclined to allow you to test the unit. This goes back to my comments in another article about people who buy pens to put them on display, but never use them.

One last thing. People ask me about losing more expensive pens while I’m out or at work. My answer to this is simple. I never let a pen leave my hand or pocket. I never "lend" them or allow someone else to use my personal writing instruments. A quirk, perhaps, but it works. I don’t lose pens. For convenience, I keep utility pens and pencils on my desk that I offer for use by others as the need arises. Which brings me to an important rule: Never let someone else use your fountain pen!


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